As Macrene Alexiades, MD, PhD, the board-certified dermatologist behind a number of celebrity skin tones, including those of Sienna Miller and Brooke Shields, says, “The transition to hot weather can throw skin into a state of chaos. At this time of year, changes in temperature and humidity can make it harder to maintain a healthy complexion, which means it’s important to adjust your spring skincare routine accordingly. to help your skin regain its balance as quickly as possible.
“Heat and humidity can trigger inflammation, oiliness and redness, while liberal applications of sunscreen can form a dull residue over time, and tanning causes thickening of the skin, clogged pores and a reserve of sebum,” explains Dr. Alexiades. “Finally, sun exposure causes hyperpigmentation, including melasma and dark spots… Skin quality can [also] deteriorate due to pollution and sun damage, which can manifest as dullness, discoloration, fine lines and wrinkles. (Okay, so some not-so-great side effects.)
To help manage all of the above, we asked Dr. Alexiades to share exactly how she’s switching things up for her own spring skincare routine. Keep reading to steal his tips for yourself.
1. Switch to a gentle cleanser
Spending time outdoors in the warmer months means you’re exposed to more pollution, which can trigger flare-ups and breakouts. Now is the time to choose a gentle skin cleanser that is already adapting to climate and environmental changes.
Once you’ve made the switch, “resisting the urge to cleanse too deeply — wiping away all traces of oil or reaching for super-powerful astringents can strip your complexion and leave it looking worse,” says Dr. Alexiades, who personally uses the High Performance Cleansing Treatment ($96) from her eponymous line to rebalance her skin and reduce excess oil. But any gentle, pH-balanced facial cleanser should do the trick.
2. Rethink your retinol
Since breakouts can be part of the seasonal transition process, if you’re using a retinol, check with your dermatologist to see if the concentration needs to be increased. Dr. Alexiades likes RoC Retinol Correction Deep Wrinkle Anti-Aging Night Cream, which she says should always be used at night (because it’s photosensitive) and should be paired with a solid moisturizer to reduce irritation.
3. Speaking of moisturizer….
“When the temperature changes, the humidity level also changes, which leads to a change in the skin’s needs,” explains Dr. Alexiades. She explains that during the winter months, when temperatures and humidity are low, you need a heavy moisturizer to combat the dry skin that is a side effect of these conditions. “On the other hand, in summer, the temperature is high, as is the humidity of the air, which requires switching to a less hydrating diet,” she adds.
In making this switch, she suggests looking for a non-occlusive moisturizer that’s free of petrolatum, mineral oil, and waxes, and choosing water-based formulas over oil-based formulas. “Learn about soothing and oil-reducing ingredients, like tea, coffee and feverfew plant extracts, and B vitamins like biotin and panthenol,” she says.
Macrene High Performance Face Cream — $225.00
In his own routine, Dr. Alexiades swaps the ultra-hydrating active ingredients MACRENE High-Performance Extra Rich Cream for the lighter version of his range. “It provides a wealth of rejuvenating antioxidants, such as resveratrol, and DNA-repairing ingredients, such as plankton and algae, that correct essential sun and pollution damage to restore skin in real time. “, she says. “Besides, [it has] Vitamin C, an effective brightening agent that enhances collagen production while providing additional antioxidant protection from the sun.
4. Slather on that SPF
At the first hint of blossoms on the trees, most of us adjust our schedules so we can spend more time outdoors, making SPF a non-negotiable daily ritual. “The daily use of powerful anti-aging actives is the most important approach for the skin,” says Dr. Alexiades. When it comes to SPF, she considers mineral sunscreens to be superior to their chemical counterparts. “The mineral SPF works by physically deflecting UVA and UVB rays from reaching the skin’s surface, rather than being absorbed well underneath.” Her recommendation is Coola Classic Face Sunscreen SPF 30.
5. Consider booking in-office treatments
“In terms of in-office treatments, in the summer they should be aimed at reducing hyperpigmentation and excess oil, which can include chemical peels and oil-reducing lasers, like Genesis,” says Dr. Alexiades. “Opt for lifting and tightening procedures, such as radio frequency, and general pigment blind rejuvenation procedures. It is ideal to do these in the spring, as you will appreciate the results in time for summer.” Dr. Alexiades personally receives radio frequency and his M Signature Morpheus PRP when the weather warms up.
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